Once upon a time, January was cold. Springtime was wet, the summer season was hot, and autumn was mild with cool nights. That uniformity defined a usual year at Fattoria dei Barbi, the most awarded Brunello producer in the world, up until ten years ago.
Today, under the leadership of President Stefano Cinelli Colombini, the historic estate adapts to the vagaries of climate change to produce balanced and consistently high-quality bottles of Brunello year after year. They have done so largely through innovative adaptation, grafting historic Sangiovese vines on well-trained soil to ensure they are resilient to extreme conditions. That has produced exquisite vintages that have become veritable references for the powerful flavour, complex aromas and elegance of Sangiovese, even as recently as the 2013, 2015, and, releasing next year, the 2016.
But the singularity of the Barbi production can also be understood through its robust cellar, currently preserving 131 vintages of Brunello, some dating back to 1892. For fine wine connoisseurs looking for a taste of the distant past, the estate is releasing 50 limited edition boxes of the 1975 and 1982, two of their most special vintages, straight from the temperature-controlled protection of their cellars.
Rare are the truly old Brunello vintages of the 1970s and 1980s when production was shared by only a select group of winegrowers – including Giovanni and Francesca Colombini, grandfather and mother to Fattoria dei Barbi’s present owner. The beauty of the 1975 vintage stems from its conditions: the seasons were uniform and the harvest took place in mid-October, delivering the best grapes from the oldest vines. It was then aged five years, four of which were in oak barrels.
The result is a perfect embodiment of mature Brunello: Garnet red with orange hues, an intriguing and complex nose, with tertiary notes of carob, dry hay, walnuts, orange peel and autumn leaves. On the palate it is mineral, with balsamic notes and licorice. The tannins are silky and the aftertaste long and persistent.
The 1982 vintage is characterised by the influence of Francesca Colombini, daughter of Giovanni and mother of Stefano. During her tenure, the total production of Brunello di Montalcino increased. Harvest came earlier in the 1980s but the change was no match for the estate whose rigorous approach to vinification is followed today: low yields production, using the best possible grapes, and ageing in Slavonian oak barrels and large casks.
Brunello devotees will discover notes of ripe plums, dates, and figs that give way to hints of tobacco and balsamic essences. The palate is well balanced and complex, with silky tannins and a long, lingering aftertaste.
Acquiring these two unique and lively vintages means acquiring a special piece of history and the unique ability to transport yourself away to another time, another place. Experience the relaxed atmosphere and warmth of the Tuscan countryside as you open these historic bottles with loved ones.
